Elaboración de Cosméticos Decorativos a Partir de Frutos Verdes de Genipa americana L.

Abstract

The elaboration of decorative cosmetics from green fruits of Genipa americana L. (huito) was carried out in the laboratories of Natural Products, Instrumental Analysis and the Research and Development Department of the Faculty of Sciences of ESPOCH. The substance of interest studied was the Geniposide because it is responsible for developing a blue-black color when it reacts with primary amino groups present in skin collagen. The compound was isolated, its effective extraction under specific conditions was determined, its forced stability was analyzed and it was conditioned to a formulation by means of experimental designs based on the methods described by Endo and Taguchi, Barbosa, Rodrigues and in ICH2000. In this research 3.5 mg of Geniposide was isolated, with an approximate purity of 100%; it was found that there is an optimal extraction of the compound when using 50% ethanol, at 20ºC and a solid - solvent ratio (1:30); it was determined that Geniposide is easily degraded by alkaline and acid hydrolysis, in addition, a semi-permanent O/W emulsion type delineator was elaborated for which the following values were found pH 7. 06, density 1.1877 g/ml, viscosity 100.3 cp, total mesophilic aerobic count and total count of fungi and yeasts < 1. It is concluded that the semi-permanent eyeliner presented desirable characteristics such as easy application, innocuousness, extensibility without leaving lumps, concise tracing, continuous fixation for 5 days and that it complies with the reference requirements. It is recommended that cosmetics that include extracts of Genipa americana L. have a final pH close to neutrality to ensure their stability and the affinity of the compound for the skin.